October 15, 2012

Mount Carrigain Finale!

We've done it. On Saturday, Katy and I hiked Mount Carrigain to complete our goal of hiking all 48 of New Hampshire's 4000 footers! Our original plan for the finale was to hike on Columbus day weekend, but with scheduling conflicts and sub-optimal weather, we decided to push it out one more week. The result of this move had several positive side effects. First, Sawyer River Road, the access road from 302 to the Signal Ridge Trailhead, has been closed to vehicle traffic since it was damaged during Tropical Storm Irene over a year ago. Hiking the road turns the normally 10 mile out and back hike into a 14 mile slog which is something we were fully expecting and prepared to do. However, to our pleasant surprise, the road opened just this past week! We didn't do anything and we were already four miles closer to our goal. Second, the weather on Columbus Day weekend was ok, but plagued with clouds and showers. Saturday, on the other hand, turned out to be a perfectly clear day, and an early preview of winter with crisp temperatures and snow on the summits. You couldn't have ordered up a better New England blend of the seasons if you tried. Finally, with our original schedule, our most frequent hiking participant would have been unable to make it. With the delay, however, my sister Mo was now available to join us for "The Final Thing!" Like we've done in the past, we coordinated an early meeting time of 6:00AM at the Park-And-Ride lot in Nashua on Saturday morning. We met Mo there in the dark of the pre-dawn hour and continued north to begin the last adventure of this hiking chapter!



We arrived at the trailhead at the end of Sawyer River Road before 9:00AM to a mostly full lot. It looks like we weren't the only ones glad that the road was open! The skies were clear but the temperature was a brisk 28 degrees. After gearing up, we took a few photos and then were off to tackle the five mile trail to the summit. The first two miles or so of the Signal Ridge Trail are easy and mostly flat. I had read that the first quarter mile of the trail had been rerouted very recently to bypass a difficult river crossing. This first section of trail was clearly in its infancy but in good shape and easy to follow. After following it we quickly joined up with the much wider and more pronounced original trail and continued at a leisurely place through the fallen leaves. There was one fairly straightforward river crossing about a mile and half in which we navigated without issue before reaching the only trail junction on this route at 1.7 miles. We continued on, at this point starting to see some signs of snow on the trail.



After pushing past the trail junction, we started climbing. The grades on this trail were easy, with moderate steepness the rest of the way. It wasn't long before the trail was mostly covered in snow. There was less than an inch for the most part and not really a need or use for microspikes, but there was just enough to make the trail a bit slick and icy in spots. We carefully continued on, and began to bump into a few other hiking groups on the trail. It was at this point that an interesting phenomena began to happen. Now, we've definitely had conversations with other hikers in the past about the 4000 footers, how couldn't you? Certainly not everyone you see hiking these trails is a peakbagger, nor has everyone even heard of the 4000 footer club, but when you hike all 48 of them, you're bound to have a conversation here and there with someone who has this common goal. Up to this point, though, we haven't bumped into anyone (that we know of) that was finishing their list on that very hike. When we reached the semi-exposed ridgeline about a half mile from the summit, two girls were coming down who had just finished their 48 list that day! Congrats! we say, and we're finishing too! We were nearly there and the celebration was on.



When we reached the summit, there was a crowd of over a dozen people there. Katy and I high fived and then began to ascend the summit lookout tower to take in some of "the best views in the Whites." As we started up the stairs, we heard the cork of a champagne bottle pop. Another group finishing their 48 at the same moment as us! I knew that Carrigain was a popular peak to finish on, but this was quite the coincidence. Maybe everyone was just holding out until Sawyer River Road opened up? Whatever the case, it was quite the party atmosphere at the summit despite the snow, the cold, and the wind. We went up to the top of the lookout tower for the panoramic views and for the summit photos on the 48th. It's no joke about the views, they are definitely some of the best and we braved the icy wind chills for as long as we could before seeking shelter down below. Also, for those who have been following along you may have noticed that Katy is likely the first person to do a "ninja jump" at the top of all 48 4000 foot peaks. While I can't claim the same, I did promise Katy that I would do a ninja jump with her on our final peak. Now you've seen the proof!



After some time at the summit, we ducked a little ways down the trail under the shelter of some trees away from the wind to eat some lunch. At this point another group of hikers came that also had some 48 finishers among them! Somebody on the trail tallied it up and by his count there were at least 15 individuals who finished their list of New Hampshire's 4000 footers on that very day. Incredible! All of this summit celebration was very exciting, but there was still one important piece of administrivia to take care of -- getting down. It's important to note that we weren't actually finished until we reached the bottom under our own power and were safely back at the trailhead. After our lunch we continued on, taking care on the snowy, and still slippery upper section of the trail. We continued through the seasons and gradually made it back into the autumn conditions with the snow gone, fallen leaves on the ground, and slightly warmer fall air. After a bit of a slog through the last couple miles, we finally "emerged victorious" at the trailhead as the newest members of the AMC 4000 footer club! (Well, until about 2 minutes later when one of the other finishers on that day came off the trail right behind us!)

It's been just over three years on this journey and I couldn't have picked a better teammate to tackle this goal (Love you Katy!). Looking back over a constant thread like this makes you realize how quickly time can go by and how much things can change in such a seemingly short period of time. It's not just the mountains that have been the constant, though, it's the friends, the family, and the loved ones that have joined us, laughed at our stories, followed our progress, and cheered us on. Special thanks, of course, goes to Mo, Brian, Anne, Tim, Kate, and UP on coming with us, some for just a few miles, others for many many more. A lot lies ahead for me and Katy, and there will still be hiking with the 67 New England 4000 footers as a potential long term goal. For now, though, here's a look back at our adventure.

Mount Lafayette2009.10.04
Mount Lincoln2009.10.04
Cannon Mountain2009.11.15
Mount Tecumseh2010.04.24
Mount Moriah2010.07.24
North Kinsman2010.09.05Mo, Anne
South Kinsman2010.09.05Mo, Anne
Mount Tom2010.10.10Mo
Mount Field2010.10.10Mo
Mount Willey2010.10.10Mo
Mount Hancock2011.05.28Mo, Brian
South Hancock2011.05.28Mo, Brian
Wildcat D2011.07.02Mo, Brian, Kate, UP
Wildcat2011.07.02Mo
Carter Dome2011.07.02Mo
South Carter Mountain2011.07.02Mo
Middle Carter Mountain2011.07.02Mo
Mount Osceola2011.07.12
East Osceola2011.07.12
Mount Whiteface2011.07.23Mo
Mount Passaconaway2011.07.23Mo
Mount Flume2011.07.31
Mount Liberty2011.07.31
Mount Hale2011.08.06
Mount Pierce2011.09.04
Mount Eisenhower2011.09.04
Mount Waumbek2012.01.01
Mount Jackson2012.01.29
North Tripyramid2012.02.19
Middle Tripyramid2012.02.19
Mount Garfield2012.04.07
Mount Isolation2012.05.12
North Twin Mountain2012.05.26
South Twin Mountain2012.05.26
Galehead Mountain2012.05.26
Mount Jefferson2012.06.16Anne, Tim
Mount Moosilauke2012.06.23Brian
Mount Adams2012.06.30Brian
Mount Madison2012.06.30Brian
Mount Monroe2012.07.21Mo
Mount Washington2012.07.21Mo
Mount Cabot2012.07.28
Mount Zealand2012.08.04
West Bond2012.08.04
Mount Bond2012.08.04
Bondcliff2012.08.04
Owl's Head2012.09.02
Mount Carrigain2012.10.13Mo

September 3, 2012

Owl's Head

Yesterday Katy and I embarked on another long hike, about 19 miles in total, to reach the peak of Owl's Head. It was the 47th 4000 footer for us on our quest to hike all 48 of New Hampshire's 4000 footers and leaves just Mount Carrigain between us and eternal glory! Owl's Head is one of those peaks that requires maximum effort for minimal reward and is rarely collected early on a peakbagger's list. The trail is long and monotonous with tricky river crossings and very few views. In addition, there is no officially maintained trail that goes all the way to the summit, with the final mile or so of the hike following an unmaintained herd path up an old rock slide. Despite these challenges, we were ready to make this hike a good one, and arrived early at the trailhead at Lincoln Woods yesterday at 7:30AM. We had been tracking the forecast all week long and the weather looked perfect with sunny skies predicted and a 0% chance of rain. As we geared up for the hike, though, it was overcast with rain showers spitting at us. Oops!



We began our journey down the Lincoln Woods Trail and settled in for a long, flat walk. Fortunately, the rain showers ended quickly, and the tree canopy pretty much kept us dry in the meantime. The Lincoln Woods Trail is about 3 miles in length, is very wide, and is almost completely flat as it follows a former logging road. As an access point to the Pemigewasset Wilderness, you'll find more than just Owl's Head goers on it. Early in the morning we saw some trail runners go by, we saw some backpackers hiking out, and we saw a couple bicycles pass us as well. We cruised along and made good time down the trail. As the monotony pounded on our feet, I began to feel my plantar fasciitis start to flare up. A few years back I battled plantar fasciitis off and on for a long time but had discovered an effective strategy to manage it by using tape to support my arches. This allowed me to continue playing ultimate without degeneratively aggravating my heals and arches in the process. Well, after a pain free year, I think my summer league ultimate frisbee tournament from a couple weeks ago put my heals over the edge and I've had minor plantar issues since. I've been back to taping my feet before ultimate games and this time decided to stop and tape up my feet for the remainder of the hike. Katy makes fun of me and my self prescribed injury management "programs" but hey, they do work! I taped up my feet and while I still had some discomfort, it helped a lot with arch support the rest of the hike.



Once we reached the end of the Lincoln Woods Trail, we took a left turn onto the much less heavily traveled Lincoln Brook Trail. After summitting 47 4000 footers, Katy explained that she finally made the connection that if a trail name has "Brook", "Stream", "River", or "Falls" in it, then you should probably expect to do some river crossing. True! We made our way down about 3.5 miles of this trail which brought us back and forth over Lincoln Brook 4 different times. The water levels were not significantly high but they were still a challenge to keep your boots dry. Fortunately, I wasn't too concerned about that and kind of just blasted right through the rivers. Katy did her best to rock hop and kept her feet mostly dry on the way in. After the final stream crossing that put the river on our left, we kept an eye out for the trail junction with Owl's Head Path. Since this is an unofficial trail, there would be no sign. It was obvious when we reached it, though; there was a large cairn built up in the middle of the trail with logs marking the route to our right.



After over 8 miles of long, flat trail, we had reached the steeps! While not an official trail, the path up the slide was well beaten with mini cairns built as trail markers along the way. It was a bit of a free for all, though, as the path often diverged into multiple routes which rejoined each other later down the trail. This was especially true once up past the slide and navigating the ridge line. Since no real trail maintenance work is done, it seems as though rather than clear blow downs people naturally just beat out more herd paths. Nevertheless, we did finally manage to find the summit and found a crowd of 7 or 8 people already there! For such a remote, viewless peak, it was a popular destination yesterday as we saw at least a couple dozen more people heading up once we were on our way down.



With number 47 in the bag, we began the long trek back out the way we came. There were tired muscles, achy joints, and sore feet by the time we were down but that made it that much more rewarding when we ate everything off the menu at the Common Man post-hike. And then there was one! Mount Carrigain, we'll see you soon!

August 5, 2012

Mount Zealand and The Bonds

The Bonds! Ever since we started peakbagging and hiking all of New Hampshire's 4000 footers, "The Bonds" have been looming as the most difficult peaks to conquer. The Bonds are actually a collection of three different peaks, Mount Bond, West Bond, and Bondcliff, all nestled deep in the middle of the Pemigewasset Wilderness. Since they are all near eachother, they are often bagged together on one single trip, but all of the options are at least 20 miles in length. Should we do it as a backpacking trip camping at Guyot Campsite? Should we make use of the Galehead or Zealand Falls AMC Huts which are nearby? These were open questions for a while but as we continued to hike and continued to bag peaks, we decided that we could take on the Bonds in a single day. The next question was what will our route be? A traverse from Zealand Road to Lincoln Woods is the shortest route and has the least amount of elevation gain. The only drawback is that it requires two cars and a fairly long car spot. An out-and-back from Zealand Road is about the same distance but with 1000 feet more of elevation gain. We invited a few different people to come along on the hike with us and potentially help with a car spot, but we had no takers (I wonder why?). In the end it was settled that Katy and I would be on our own on an out-and-back from Zealand Road: 20 miles in length and 5000 feet of elevation gain to bag The Bonds and a bonus Mount Zealand along the way!




In order to simplify things for ourselves, we decided to check in to the Above the Notch Motor Inn down the road from the Zealand trailhead on Friday night. I estimated it would take us about 12 hours to complete the hike, but an early start on the trail would be much easier if we don't have a three hour drive in the morning first. We woke up early yesterday morning and were at the trailhead at 5:30AM. Surprisingly, the parking lot at the end of Zealand Road was already about half full with cars. No doubt many of these were of people staying overnight at the Zealand Falls Hut, an easy two and a half mile hike from the trailhead. We snapped some photos and headed off right as the morning sun was rising. The first section of the trail was mostly flat and easy, and although possibly sleepwalking at times, we made it to the hut in about an hour.





We didn't stop long at the hut, maybe a minute or two, but wanted to push on as it was still early and we had only been on flat trail so far. It was about three miles from the hut to our first peak of the day, Mount Zealand, and once we left the hut, we started to climb. I'm not sure what it was, maybe the early hours, or maybe this section really was pretty steep, but this early part of the hike seemed tough. We quickly settled into a groove where we were concentrating on climbing and the conversation died down for a bit. After a couple miles of climbing up, the trail finally began to level off and we both settled enjoyed the reprieve from the steeps. Before long, we were at the spur trail to Mount Zealand and hiked the 0.1 miles in from there to bag the viewless summit. Number 43 done!



At this point the only other people we had seen on the trail were at the Zealand Hut. After coming back out from Zealand's summit we finally bumped into another hiker on the trail. Civilization! We continued on towards Guyot, now on a section of the Appalachian Trail and bumped into a few more hikers on the way. One such hiker greeted us with a cheerful good morning and then:

  • "Hey I just want to double check, am I still on the AT?"

  • "Yes you are!"

  • "Oh good I wasn't sure since I haven't seen any white blazes in a while"

  • "Where are you coming from?"

  • "Georgia, happy to still be alive!"

A through-hiker! We've seen a few through-hikers before but this guy was definitely the most cheerful and least ragged looking. Good luck to him the rest of the way! We continued on the rolling trail towards the summit of Guyot, not an official 4000 foot peak but one with expansive views and a grand destination all by itself. We were seven miles into our hike and it wasn't even 10 in the morning! We hit the trail junction of Bondcliff Trail near Guyot, took a left turn, now off the AT, and pressed on towards the Bonds.



It was a great day out, but the temperature really began to heat up at this point. The forecast for the valley was for a humid day close to 90 degrees, and even at elevation it likely made it nearly to this level. We quickly made it to the spur trail to go up West Bond and then made the half mile ascent to the summit. The trail up to West Bond is wooded but has a fantastic exposed summit with great views all around.



After stopping for a while on West Bond for some snacks and a break, we made the half mile descent back out to the main trail, and were only another half mile from the summit of Mount Bond at that point. We quickly made it up to Mount Bond where we were treated with more fantastic panoramic views. We met another couple of hikers on this summit who were on a backpacking trip starting from the Kancamagus Highway. We saw very few people on Bondcliff trail on this fine day, and even fewer who were on just a single day journey. We soaked in some more views and then pushed on towards Bondcliff.



We arrived at the peak of Bondcliff at around 11:30AM. Six hours into our hike and we were over halfway done. Now just time to turn around and go back! We hung out at Bondcliff for a while, ate some lunch, and rested up for the return trip. The hike back up Bond was a bit of a challenge as we were already 11 miles into our hike and faced a nice uphill climb in front of us. Katy was also developing a pounding headache at this point likely from the hot sun and maybe a bit of dehydration. We found some shade to stop, she took in some extra water, gatorade, and ibuprofen, and continued on. Fortunately that seemed to help and her headache eventually went away. Once we re-bagged the summit of Mount Bond, we coasted back to Guyot, past Zealand, and down to the Zealand Falls Hut. On the way back we passed a group of two hikers, one of whom was blind! We were also hoping to pass Ryan who was attempting the NH 48 speed record and whose itinerary appeared to bring him right by us on our hike out. We never saw anyone who looked like he was about 150 miles into a three day trip and alas it appears as though the trip was aborted before the Pemi traverse was attempted. In any case, when we reached the hut, there was a bustle of activity with kids and families arriving and the croo starting to prepare dinner for that evening's meal. We stopped to refill our water and eat some more snacks before continuing on.



We arrived back at the trailhead on Zealand Road at about 4:30PM, 11 hours after we had started so early in the morning. Our legs were tired, some joints were sore, a few blisters had formed, but really I would say we were both feeling pretty good. On paper the Bonds may look daunting, but get out there on a beautiful day and they are mostly just rewarding. Granted Katy and I have been working our way up to this trek with our summer hiking blitz, but for any peakbaggers wondering how they're going to tackle the Bonds, fear not. There are many options, and with the fairly tame elevation gain, a single day trip is easier than it looks. With the Bonds done we are now at 46 out of 48 NH 4k footers complete!